Skyline Trail, Jasper National Park, Sept 2004

Day 3: From Muck to Snow

The day started a wee bit chilly, with frost crystals covering the ground up to one inch (they made a weird crunching sound when walked on.) We had Quaker Instant Oats (Cinnamon and Spice) for breakfast. Sonia couldn't finish hers but I always have more room for food.

We finally headed off at about 10:30am (I know, we were practically dawdling but we have plenty of time). The trail started to get a bit muddy almost right away but turned snowy by the time we reached Little Shovel Pass. After about another kilometer it really began to get mucky, especially after the Snowbowl campground. The muck sucked at our boots, making the going difficult, not to mention the kilo of sludge that remained attached to each boot. A good sense of humour was required at this point and was provided.

We stopped for a coffee break (yes, we have plenty of time on our hands) on a flat rock alongside the trail and encountered the first humans on our hike. On passing us, they only grunted a cursory greeting with a German accent. I named them "Hans" and "Olga." They were fully outfitted in brand-new, skookum gear, down to the walking poles. We followed them at a distance of about one kilometer.

The wind started picking up as we got closer to Big Shovel Pass and it began to get colder. After cresting the Pass, we looked back fondly on the quagmire earlier in the day. For the next 4km we slogged through snow that was slushy on the bottom and caused us to lose traction every few feet and soak our feet. The wind was strong enough to make us stumble sideways at times.

It was a great relief to drop down below the treeline to the Curator campground and the protection of trees. Hans and Olga had already set up their tent and had all their gear up on the bear pulls. They didn't appear to want ot be sociable so we left them alone.

Supper tonight comprised of bean, couscous and cheese burritos washed down with coffee. Since I brought along a 1lb chunk of chocolate, we decided to put a few chunks in a pot with water and boil until the chocolate melted. To our great pleasure, it made a wonderful, yummy hot chocolate (better than any powdered crap.)

We'll be spending tomorrow here and go for a day hike. Our plan is to go up to Curator Lake and find out if the Notch is passable. When we saw it earlier today from the trail, there appeared to be a cornice of snow covering it. Hans and Olga will be attempting it tomorrow and come back if it's impassable. If it isn't, we'll have to take an alternate route, such as the Watchtower Trail. It would be a shame, though, as the Notch and the ridge along Amber Mountain are the best parts of the trail (the "Sky" of the Skyline Trail).

Photos:

• Top right: Me on trail just past Little Shovel CG
• Middle left: View towards Curator Lake from Big Shovel Pass.
• Bottom right: Trail heading down to Curator campground. You can just make out Sonia on the other side of the rocks.

Day 4 >>