Gooby.ca - Skyline Trail 2004

Introduction

nospam@example.com (Stephane Theroux) — Wed, 29 Sep 2004 14:35:00 -0500

This journal attempts to recount a hike of the Skyline Trail in Jasper National Park I made along with my sister Sonia. It was to be a final hoorah for just the two of us before I moved to the other end of the country (from British Columbia to New Brunswick)[update: I'm back in BC as of April 2005]. We took the hike slowly, stretching it over 5 days and 4 nights, in order to enjoy the scenery and each other's company. It was my first multi-day hike that I hadn't done solo and I quite enjoyed it. I'd like to do the Skyline again in the future, but about a month earlier so I can catch the tundra in it's full beauty.

We did the hike in late September which meant we encountered some snow at the higher elevations, especially at the Notch and the ridge of Amber Mountain. The daytime temperature hovered between -2°C and 8°C (28°F to 46°F) with overnight lows going down to about -5°C (23°F).

The journal is a bit concise as I'm not a person of many words and, this being my first trip journal, wasn't sure how much detail to include. Not to mention that it is rather uncomfortable writing while scrunched up in the tent. With my short-term memory often eluding me, I may actually remember more details as time goes by, especially when placing picture next to word, and will probably edit the journal to reflect this (this online version is actually more detailed than the written version, with a couple of exceptions.)

The journal contains a selection of photos taken during the trip. The complete set of photos can be viewed in the Skyline Photo Gallery.

Photos:

Top left: Me basking on Amber Mountain enjoying the five minutes of sun that day.
Bottom right: Mount Tekarra in the morning sun.

Day 1: Departure Day - Bus Trip

nospam@example.com (Stephane Theroux) — Wed, 29 Sep 2004 14:34:00 -0500

We just caught the bus, arriving at the station at 6:20am, with the bus leaving at 6:30am. Our driver for the first leg of the trip (to Kamloops) was named Troy. He was almost over-the-top nice, going to great lengths to make everyone comfortable. He even put the movie audio over the intercom for those who didn't have headsets (for the record, the movie was "Man on Fire" with Denzel Washington.)

The trip was, for the most part, uneventful, with stops in Hope, Chilliwack, Kamloops, and points between. We arrived in Jasper around 6:30PM local time (MDT) and spent the next hour, or so, searching for accomodations. You take a risk waiting until arriving to find a place to stay but we found a private home accomodation (room) for fifty bucks.

Upon relieving ourselves of our backpacks, we went out to dinner at a place called "Fiddle River" on Connaught Street. We shared a phyllo triangle appy and both had Pad Thai as the entree. Dessert was not to be skipped and consisted of deep-fried ice cream with fruit coulis. Yum.

The beds in our room were a bit springy and did not result in a good night's sleep (although it was probably more comfy than staying in a tent for the night. That comes later.)

By the way, the bus photo is a stock photo. My camera was in my backpack in the cargo bay of the bus, so I couldn't get any photos of the bus trip to Jasper.

Day 2: From Trailhead to Snow

nospam@example.com (Stephane Theroux) — Wed, 29 Sep 2004 14:33:00 -0500

We got a late start today, managing to sleep in until 8:30am after a fitful sleep. We'd both had two very short nights of sleep so sleeping in today was okay.

We did the typical tourist thing and got postcards from a tourist shop. A light breakfast was had at the "Jazz Cafe" on Patricia Street before catching a shuttle bus to Maligne lake and the trailhead.

The first leg of the trail, to Evelyn Creek, was a fairly gentle ascent for about 5km. A black bear had recently used the trail, evidenced by tracks left in the mud atop all other tracks. The only other animal we saw on this leg was an inquisitive red squirrel that came out to the end of a branch to investigate us.
We stoppped at the Evelyn Creek campground for a rest and a snack of Re-bars and gorp. By this point there is a bit of snow on the ground and we're beginning to get some views of the snow-covered Bald Hills. A temperature check reveals that it is 8C at the moment.

Our next stop, 3.5km along switchbacks, will be where we stay for the night. It's the Little Shovel campsite and it has some spectacular views of mountains ranges on three sides. It's beginning to get a little chilly now at 5C with a cold breeze. We set up kitchen on the one picnic table that wasn't fully covered with snow and ice and prepared a filling meal of curried rice and vegetables.

When we ran out of water we realized that, other than snow, there didn't seem to be a ready source nearby. We checked the map for any nearby stream but didn't spot any nearby. We found a trail that evetually lead to a hollow which sported a small stream about 8 inches wide and 3 inches deep; plenty enough to fill a few Nalgenes. Now the funny thing about this is that, after supper, I noticed a stream emanating from a spring right next to the trail, 20 feet from our kitchen! At least we found it before we had to do the dishes (the first stream was 500m away).

By the time we retired to the tent it was -2C although the cold breeze had gone away. The temperature in the tent itself was a balmy 4C.

11:45PM Addendum: Maybe drinking coffee wasn't such a great idea: we're still wide awake nearing midnight and -4C. Sleep would be nice right about now so we have the energy for tomorrow's leg of the trip.

Photos:

Top right: Jasper Townsite
Middle left: Me over Evelyn Creek.
Bottom right: View of Maligne Lake from Little Shovel campground.

Day 3: From Muck to Snow

nospam@example.com (Stephane Theroux) — Wed, 29 Sep 2004 14:32:00 -0500

The day started a wee bit chilly, with frost crystals covering the ground up to one inch (they made a weird crunching sound when walked on.) We had Quaker Instant Oats (Cinnamon and Spice) for breakfast. Sonia couldn't finish hers but I always have more room for food.

We finally headed off at about 10:30am (I know, we were practically dawdling but we have plenty of time). The trail started to get a bit muddy almost right away but turned snowy by the time we reached Little Shovel Pass. After about another kilometer it really began to get mucky, especially after the Snowbowl campground. The muck sucked at our boots, making the going difficult, not to mention the kilo of sludge that remained attached to each boot. A good sense of humour was required at this point and was provided.

We stopped for a coffee break (yes, we have plenty of time on our hands) on a flat rock alongside the trail and encountered the first humans on our hike. On passing us, they only grunted a cursory greeting with a German accent. I named them "Hans" and "Olga." They were fully outfitted in brand-new, skookum gear, down to the walking poles. We followed them at a distance of about one kilometer.

The wind started picking up as we got closer to Big Shovel Pass and it began to get colder. After cresting the Pass, we looked back fondly on the quagmire earlier in the day. For the next 4km we slogged through snow that was slushy on the bottom and caused us to lose traction every few feet and soak our feet. The wind was strong enough to make us stumble sideways at times.

It was a great relief to drop down below the treeline to the Curator campground and the protection of trees. Hans and Olga had already set up their tent and had all their gear up on the bear pulls. They didn't appear to want ot be sociable so we left them alone.

Supper tonight comprised of bean, couscous and cheese burritos washed down with coffee. Since I brought along a 1lb chunk of chocolate, we decided to put a few chunks in a pot with water and boil until the chocolate melted. To our great pleasure, it made a wonderful, yummy hot chocolate (better than any powdered crap.)

We'll be spending tomorrow here and go for a day hike. Our plan is to go up to Curator Lake and find out if the Notch is passable. When we saw it earlier today from the trail, there appeared to be a cornice of snow covering it. Hans and Olga will be attempting it tomorrow and come back if it's impassable. If it isn't, we'll have to take an alternate route, such as the Watchtower Trail. It would be a shame, though, as the Notch and the ridge along Amber Mountain are the best parts of the trail (the "Sky" of the Skyline Trail).

Photos:

Top right: Me on trail just past Little Shovel CG
Middle left: View towards Curator Lake from Big Shovel Pass.
Bottom right: Trail heading down to Curator campground. You can just make out Sonia on the other side of the rocks.

Day 4: Cliffs and Crystals

nospam@example.com (Stephane Theroux) — Wed, 29 Sep 2004 14:31:00 -0500

We slept in until 10:00am this morning (slackers, we are), although it was well-earned. Hans and Olga have already left for the Notch (such keeners, they are.)

As this is a day of relaxation, we took our time with breakfast (oatmeal and leftover burrito) and coffee.

We hiked up a rocky moraine that went up the side of the cliff and realized that we could ascend to the top of the cliff. We came back down to change into better footwear and get some water and the camera.

It took us about 45 minutes to get to the top of the cliff and we wandered around for a bit, taking pictures. The wind at the top was quite blustery but warmer than yesterday, with the sun shining down on us.

For those concerned about my propensity to tumble, I did not go to the edge of the cliff, even if the pictures seem to imply otherwise (although Sonia did sit at the edge to look down).

We searched for, and found, quartz crystals in the rocky meadow behind the cliff face. I kept heading up the slope until I reached the base of Curator Mountain and started encountering snow drifts. At this point, the wind was strong enough that I was able to climb up the slope without much effort.

After a couple of hours, we headed back down towards the campground. It was beginning to get cold again and the constant wind was getting a bit tiring.

At the base of the cliff we found a rich supply of quartz crystals, the best specimens of which I'll be bringing back. I think we managed to kill another hour crystal-hunting until our stomachs made us head back to camp for supper (chili and wild mushroom soup with dried shitake mushrooms).

The most memorable part of today was the sunshine and relative warmth. It was a welcome change after yesterday's clouds and strong, cold winds.

My face is beginning to get a bit fuzzy and I have a severe case of hat-head. I'm otherwise feeling great if not a little sore all over.

Tomorrow we'll hike up to Curator Lake and have one last look at the Notch and its cornice of snow. If it's not passable we'll scramble up to the ridge to the right of the Notch and follow it to the Watchtower Trail. The elevation will be about the same but without the risk of a snowy demise.

My legs are now completely asleep, sitting in this awkward position to write this journal, so I think I'll see if I can put the rest of me to sleep (hopefully, you haven't fallen asleep reading this.) I save my last thoughts of the evening for someone special that I promised I would think of every day on the hike (you know who you are.)

Photos:

Top right: Looking down the valley from the edge of the cliff.
Middle left: Looking up from the base of Mount Curator.
Bottom right: View of the cliff from the Curator campground.

Day 5: Arctic Voyage

nospam@example.com (Stephane Theroux) — Wed, 29 Sep 2004 14:30:00 -0500

Although I claimed I wouldn't do anything stupid, the Germans made us do it. If they can do it, so can we.

After getting a late start (what a surprise that is), debating whether or not we would attempt the Notch or take the alternate Watchtower Trail, we decided we'd at least go up to Curator Lake to get a better look.

Upon arriving at the lake we just kept on going up to get a better view (the Nocth is, at this point, obscured by clouds.) The closer we got to the top the windier and colder it became. To make matters worse, the trail became more and more treacherous due to the steepness of the slope, the narrowness of the trail (when we could make it out), the fact that we can't see much due to being encased in cloud, and all that damn snow.

In some spots, the only way to make out the trail was by following the half-buried footprints the Germans left in the snow. They had done it in yesterday's sunshine so probably had better visibility. Just when I thought it was starting to get a bit dicey, I passed through a hole in the mist and saw that we were nearly at the top (the mist quickly enveloped us again.)

The top was cloudy, snowy, cold, and treated us to some gale-force winds. For the next two hours we trudged through the snow and had the snot blown out of us by the wind. We received a respite of sorts when the sun came out for about five minutes while we were on the lee side of a small hump. Sonia took the opportunity to make a snow angel.

The weather got much better once we descended into Tekarra valley and got out of the wind and snow. The rest of the hike to the Tekarra campground was a gentle descent along the valley floor, with Mount Tekarra looming to our left.

The Tekarra campground was good and muddy, although our tent site was pretty high and dry. The mud did mean we couldn't trade in our boots for sandals.

Supper tonight was crackers and peanut butter as the appy and curried rice and hot chocolate as the entree. The hot chocolate was both the drink and the dessert. We has a pair of gray jays, AKA camp-robbers, join us during supper, cleaning up the cracker crumbs. The skies cleared up during supper, but to late for us to get any sun. It does mean, however, that it'll probably be a cold night.

Lights-out came early tonight so we can get an earlier start tomorrow morning. It appears as if it'll be a sunny day tomorrow.

Photos:

Top right: Me standing uphill of Curator Lake.
Middle left: Sonia coming up to the Notch through the clouds.
Bottom right: On the ridge of Amber Mountain.

Day 6: The Descent

nospam@example.com (Stephane Theroux) — Wed, 29 Sep 2004 14:29:00 -0500

Today is our final day on the trail and includes a descent of almost a vertical kilometer by the time we reach the northern trailhead. The day started with a breakfast of oatmeal with our guest gray jays and Mount Tekarra glowing in the morning sun.

The hike involved a gradual ascent back above the treeline with a great view of another side of Mount Tekarra and views to the Colin Range and the Queen Elizabeth Range. The terrain had a desolate beauty to it, with lots of rock and windswept alpine meadows.

We stopped for lunch at the Signal Mountain campground and had instant mashed potatoes (butter & herbs.) I normally would not touch the stuff in the outside world, sneering at the thought of it (Hi Denise!) but you have to make accomodations while in the backcountry. The water we used for the potatoes apparently had little critters swimming around in it, but since it was to be boiled we simply strained them out. This is to be our final meal on the trail.

The remainder of the trail is a toe-scrunching descent down an old fire road, dropping over 800 meters in elevation over 8 kilometers. There are still a few narrow views along the way but, for the most part, it's trees and elk poop. This was the fastest part of the hike, taking only about 2 hours to complete. The constant descent means your toes get scrunched into the toebox of your boots, making your feet practically ignite into flames. What a relief to reach the trailhead and shed the boots for the comfort and openness of sandals.

Our next task is to make our way back to the Jasper townsite for the night. We walked down the highway to the Maligne Canyon Chalet & Gift Shop hoping to catch the last shuttle bus back to town. Unfortunately, the shuttle company cancelled the last trip of the day due to low demand. Our remaining options were to walk the 10 kilometers, or so, back to town or try hitching. It was decided to attempt the latter. It took only about 10 minutes to get a lift from a very friendly and generous couple for L.A., of all places. They drove us right to the door of the place we were intending to stay for the night.

The first thing I attended to after unloading my pack was to take a much-needed shower. Since it was 19C at the townsite, I shed the hiking outfit and donned a pair of shorts and t-shirt.

We went firstly to a laundromat to run through a load of laundry while we ran some errands and I checked up on business back home (they had internet access terminals at the laundromat.)

Since the fare on the trail was basically vegetarian (with the unexpected exception of the chili, which contained beef "cubes"), we went to the Villa Caruso Steakhouse to partake of cow. I started with an appy of the best calamari I've yet had and Sonia had a baked onion soup to mixed review. For an entree, I had a buffalo striploin and Sonia had a hunk of cow, rare. We both had New York cheesecake with strawberry coulis. Since the place seemed semi-formal and we came in carrying plastic shopping bags with laundry and Sonia was wearing tye-dye, we think the staff suspected we would attempt a D&D. When we went up to pay there were three employees standing at the door. I hope they felt lousy after collecting the 20% tip we left (our waiter was fairly pleasant, after all.)

With overstuffed bellies, we spent time and money shopping in the tourist shops. I spent more money than I should have but business is good right now so I can afford it. Plus, it's not everyday that I get to play tourist in a place as beautiful and inspiring as the Rockies.

We headed back to our room with our booty and went to bed shortly thereafter (I got dibs on the double bed). It was difficult to get to sleep due to the lingering excitement of the trail and the fact that it was so warm compared to the temperature on the trail. Tomorrow we get on the bus for the 12-hour trip back to Vancouver and the end of a memorable experience.

Photos:

Top right: One of our guest gray jays.
Middle left: Sonia with the Colin Range in the distance.
Bottom right: At the end of the trail (northern trailhead).